PANNING PHOTOGRAPHY

Introduction

Panning is a technique used to convey a message of speed. Panning doesn’t just show movement, it also requires camera movement in the form of tracking.

Technique

The photographer tracks the moving subject horizontally from left to right or right to left with the aim of blurring the background to show speed and motion whilst keeping the subject in focus. Either use a zoom lens or get close to the subject so that you can move the camera faster.

A tripod maybe of use here to give you the lateral motion as the subject passes by. It will prevent any unwanted vertical motion.

With this technique you will want to have your image stabilisation on.

Unlike intentional camera movement (‘ICM’) at least some part of the subject must be in sharp focus.

Panning requires a choice by the photographer as to what’s in focus and what isn’t and where the viewer’s attention will fall. For example, with a horse and rider, a decision will have to be made as to what part of the horse, or the rider is in focus.

Panning doesn’t work with blank backgrounds, such as a sky, because there’s no sense of movement or speed.

Photographing an object like a train moving at speed towards the photographer is not considered panning, as the photographer is not tracking the subject.

Settings

• A good panning photo requires a relatively slow shutter speed. 1/30 - 1/80 is a good starting point. If your shutter speed is too slow or your aperture too wide, you will get nothing in focus and move into the realm of ICM.

• Having a greater depth of field will also be an advantage to help keep the subject in focus and the background blurry.

• Set the auto focus to continuous and the focus one one-point spot focus.

• Set ISO as low as possible.

• Set the drive mode to high speed continuous.

• Use an ND or polarising filter to help get your shutter speed slow enough.

• It is important that the camera’s tracking should match the speed of the subject and move as it does.

Consider backgrounds. Backgrounds that contrast with the subject help the subject stand out against the background. If the subject’s colour is similar to the background, it will blend in and not give you the result you intended.

Suggested subjects

Horse racing, horse jumping, motor sports, cycling, basketball and action sports or birds coming into land. In fact, any object that moves at speed.

Panning photography captures dynamic motion and brings storytelling and excitement to an image.

Amanda Luker 2025

A free flowing photo

An introduction to intentional camera movement (ICM)

Intentional camera movement (ICM) is a technique used to create blurry photos that tell a subtle expressionistic story. It’s all about playing with your camera and having fun.

Equipment

A circular polariser or an ND filter is very useful during the day. Sunrise and sunset hours may be dark enough for slower shutter speeds.

Key elements

• The secret to this type of photography is the shutter speed. A shutter speed of between 1/4 - 2 seconds works well. Keep the ISO as low as possible (100-200). The aperture is then adjusted to achieve the correct exposure. Turn the image stabiliser off. The longer the focal length of the lens, the more the movements will register. 70 mm+ works quite well.

• Start with steady and even movements. Jerky movements will create an image that will give your viewer a headache. Follow the flow of the subject you’re photographing. Oceans with horizons lend themselves to horizontal panning, while trees lend themselves to vertical movements.

• With mountains and hills follow the flow of the ridge line. Flowers work well with circular movements or jiggling movements. People work well with small up and/or down movements.

• A blurry photo mishap is not ICM. ICM is a deliberate, intentional camera movement intended to produce a creative photo.

Tips

• Embrace artistic freedom.

• Paint the scene with movement.

• Composition, like any photo, still plays a vital role.

• Look for simple strong shapes. With ICM you lose detail so strong shapes and leading lines ensures some detail remains.• What you don’t want is burnt out highlights so watch for that in your composition.

• Different movements will translate into different results.

• With static subjects, the longer you linger in a particular position, the more detail you’ll capture and the stronger that part of the image will be in the final exposure. This means we can control the level of data and detail we want to capture. This technique lends itself to a studio situation.

• Camera speed. If the image has too much detail, move the camera faster or use more sweeping movements. If there’s too little detail, you’re moving the camera too much or too fast.

• Consider the end result before you take the photo. What feeling or mood do you want to convey?

• Different subjects have Different characteristics and require Different camera movement techniques.

Movements

• Horizontal

• Vertical

• Wavy

• Circular

• Twists and turns

• Flipping the camera

• Diagonal

• Wobbling the camera

• Vary the movement.

• Incorporate multiple exposures into the ICM technique.

Subjects

Anything is up for grabs, but keep the subject simple. Here are a few suggestions: People, landscapes, architecture, flowers, trees, birds, animals and nature generally, street photography, pets and the beach.

Pay attention to your breathing. Relax the shoulders take a deep breath and embrace success and failure. Don’t panic, deep breaths. This technique goes against everything we’ve been taught. View the image in the back of the camera. A mistake will help you change your speed and/or camera movement to achieve an image you’re happy with.Embrace the process and have fun.

Amanda Luker 2025